Burgos

We got on a bus a short distance outside of Burgos and rode through the 12k slog through the industrial section of this beautiful city.  Kathy of South Africa, said to me that was the smart thing to do.

Anyway, we got off the bus and headed for the cathedral (who could miss it) and finally found the albergue we wanted... Small (16beds) and private.  Of course it was "complete).  We were lamenting what we would do next, when this kindly old priest took me by the hand and pointed us in the direction of the municiple albergue.  A nice man we had met a couple weeks ago in Casa Magic, led us the rest of the way with assurances that the municipal albergue was modern, warm and clean. And cheap (8euros)  Sounded good.  So, we checked in, got our bed assignment (bottom bunks :) ) , put our boots away and headed up to the 5th floor.  The dorm was crowded with 12 sets of bunks and not a whole lot of room between and even less headroom for the bottom bunk.  I bumped my head repeatedly and my hair got tangled in the upper bunks bed springs....Am  I having fun yet?

Anyway, we went out for a late lunch/
Early dinner and then toured the huge cathedral.  Holy Crap!  It is filled with the most amazing art work, carvings and sculptures.  The artisan work and history are amazing.

Went back to the place we had lunch, had a glass of wine and watched the square come alive with young people, entire families, including grandparents, with little children bundled into pre-ambulators and toddlers running around.  I don't think anyone hires babysitters.

Finally, we were too cold to stay out any longer, so we went back to the albergue and to bed (9:00pm).  By 10:00 the entire dorm was quiet.

Woke up this morning with pretty low energy.  Sharon said she didn't sleep as well as the night before in Tosantos.

After our usual breakfast of cafe con leche, croissant and orange juice,  we headed out of town. 

More later...

Tosantos

Quite an interesting place....it's very spartan and very cold.  The heaters don't work in any of the rooms.  As you can see by the photos , our sleeping quarters are very simple...mats on the floor.  Dinner was provided..salad and a delicious potato, chorizo and onion soup and bread.  No vino tinto..I was disappointed.  We helped prepare the dinner, set the table and did the dishes after dinner.  We all retired to our mats at 10:00 pm and with the help of warm, cozy blankets,  we had the best night's sleep of all our nights on Camino.  All this for "donotivo".... Give what you can.  There were 30 of us from all over the world and what we gave would feed those who came the next day

I realized that this is way it was for pilgrims in days gone by...simple, spartan places to sleep and simple meals to eat.  They left what they could.  How easy we modern day pilgrim has it...really.  Where we are staying tonight...we had a hot shower,  someone to do our laundry, a soft bed and free WIFI at the local bar.  And if we're sick, hurt or just plain tired,  all we need do is call a taxi.

But,  we walk mile after mile with all our posessions in a pack on our back.  That is something, any way.

I liked living for one day as a true pilgrim.

ULTREIA
Peregrino Patty

A Walk in the Rain & Magic at the End

Started the day with my usual breakfast.  I left Sharon in Santo Domingo where she would catch a bus to Viloria de Rioja, our lodging for the night.  I didn't have a long walk ahead of me... Maybe a little more than 9 miles and it was an easy walk....no lung bursting climbs.  It was cloudy and a steady light rain, but not at all cold.  That is until the heavens opened up and dumped on us.  Talk about a lot of wet peregrinos!  However, I bet not a single one would have wanted to be any where else.   In that kind of rain, nothing will keep you dry.  I was glad to see Viloria de Rioja appear in the distance and my pace picked up..I so wanted to be here.  However, I did not expect what I found...a refugio so warm and so welcoming.  The inviting living room with overstuffed chairs & sofas and a fire burning, incense burning and beautiful music softly playing.  The sleeping area has 10 beds and a fire burning.  The dining area with a big table encouraging peregrinos to eat together.  It is indeed magic!  We are warm, dry and content.  Sharon arrived safely.  We are bout to plan our day tomorrow.  She will walk and see how her leg feels.  I hope it's better.  Send positive, healing thoughts her way. 

Buen Camino

Visiting Monastaries & Medicos

Ourfriend Carla had yo leave us today to take care of critical business.  I hope she doesn't have to quit the Camino. 

Sharon & I visited the fascinating and ancient Monasterio de Suso in the mountains not far from Najera.  Photos weren't allowed and that was painful.  I did take photos in the "newer" monasterio de Yuso.  That one dated from the 1100's.  I used my camera for those. 

We taxied to Santo Domingo where sharon saw a doctor who wrapped her leg, told her to take Ibuprofen and two days off walking.  She's not happy and I don't blame her.  But there's a lot of Camino left to walk.